There and back again,
but mostly there,
and then there... and there... and
there...
November 13th, 2012.
I had been spending the last few days
modifying my sleep patterns so that I wouldn't be debilitated with
jet lag when I arrived at my final destination in Tipperary, Ireland.
They say it's a long way to Tipperary. I say it can be a lot longer
to travel than they can imagine, especially if you are completely
incompetent at planning a trip. I had arrived at the air terminal in
Seattle, Washington sometime around 4:30 in the morning after having
stayed up for the previous night. At this point I had been awake for
close to 18 hours. I had planned on getting some sleep on the plane
to Ireland. I can never sleep on planes, so part of the plan being up
all night was not only to combat the jet lag, but also to force my
sleep while flying. This would turn out to be an error that would
lead to a long chain of errors; errors begetting errors begetting
errors.
I had my Greyhound, 'Carlow', in tow.
I do not suggest air travel for any reason with your pet. Not just
because it can potentially add an enormous amount of complexity to a
trip, but also because it is not easy on the pet itself. The journey
I am describing will be a good example of what not to do with your
pet in travel. I had spoken with the Agricultural department in
Ireland and the USA, a Greyhound rescue in Ireland and three others
in the United States, officials at Aer Lingus, United Airlines, Delta
Airlines, American Airlines, British Airways, Virgin Airlines, KLM
Air Lines, Air Canada and Air France and SeaTac Airport in Seattle.
What you will find missing in that long list of official contacts is
the Airport at Dublin Ireland. This would turn out to be a painful
omission.
In the United States, we tend to treat
air travel with a pet rather lightly. Many airlines do not even
require a health certificate, let alone any official paperwork
according to immunizations. None require microchip identification,
nor do they require any sort of pet passport as they do in Europe.
There are a couple of airports and States that do require an animal
have a health certificate completed by a veterinarian, but not all,
even though some laws require it – it's often ignored in recent
times. In most cases, in good weather, you can fly with your pet more
easily and cheaply than you can fly with a human companion. This
would not prove to be the case in my situation.
Back to Wednesday morning – I was
meant to board a plane at 7 in the morning for a 9AM arrival at
Dublin Airport Ireland the next day. When I checked in to the desk at
Delta Airlines, there were problems. They could not check the hound
in on the computer. This was followed by nearly 30 minutes of
confusion as they had no idea whether it was a computer glitch,
policy glitch, or lack of room aboard the plane. I was starting to
feel the first tinges of panic. Eventually a supervisor approached me
and told me she had bad news. They had booked me for the flight
according to Deltas own regulations, however, Dublin Airport itself
required that all pets and livestock must fly as cargo. No pets could
be checked in as baggage. It took a call from a SeaTac Delta official
to Delta's Atlanta headquarters to find this information. This turned
out to be as much news to the ticket counter at Delta Airlines as
myself. Delta then suggested I contact a few other airlines while
they themselves contacted their cargo division to see what was
immediately available for Ireland. Delta's passenger booking and
cargo booking are two completely different entities. I would have to
visit their cargo terminal in person with my pet, crate in tow, in
order to get an estimate for cargo costs and availability of flights.
I was also informed it would potentially be difficult to plan my
arrival at the same time as cargo had planned for Carlow.
It is now nearly 9AM on Wednesday, the
14th of November. I have been awake for nearly 24 hours. I
am standing at the cargo desk at Delta airlines cargo division. It is
located about a mile from the passenger air terminal. In order to get
here, I had to purchase a hand truck rental, place Carlow and her
crate upon it, and then pull her and 2 pieces of luggage along that
route. I could not find a free locker at the airport. I am waiting
cost and departure information from the helpful man at the counter.
He had weighed Carlow in her crate(97 lbs), and was now checking
their booking system.
“That comes to $1,580 and we can book
her on Sunday, November 18th, at the soonest for a Monday arrival.
She can not land in Dublin Airport during the weekend, and all cargo
must be booked at least 4 days in advance according to our policies.”
I stared at the man. He stared back,
expectantly.
I blinked. He blinked.
“$1,580? … Sunday departure at the
soonest?”, I whispered to him to conceal my panic and frustration. He nodded.
Not only would this add the
aforementioned $1,580, but a stay over in Seattle for 4 more days
would also add nearly $600-700 in hotel fare to my trip as well. I
really had no place to go as I had prepared to be in Ireland for
quite some time. I had no home, and I had no car. I was stranded at
SeaTac airport with Carlow regardless how this was going to play out.
I considered crying.
I made some calls. None of which gave
me answers I can honestly say pleased me. I had to return to the
passenger air terminal to book an alternate flight. Delta Cargo
allowed me to leave the crate in their holding while I brought Carlow
to the passenger terminal on lead. I could not leave my baggage, so
that came along another mile to the terminal. Delta informed me they
had a flight in to Amsterdam the next day. It left at 1pm and arrived
at 8am in Schiphol Airport. They checked with Amsterdam to make sure
I could arrive with Carlow as checked baggage with the paperwork I
had in hand. There was only one problem – the ticket was twice the
amount my Dublin ticket was. While this was still significantly less
than the cost of cargo plus a hotel stay, it was still out of my
costs range if I were to also book a ferry or another flight from
Amsterdam to Dublin. After some juggling, though, the clerk was able
to get me on board the Amsterdam flight for another $450 in costs. I
had no option but to take that flight.
I had planned on having more than
$1,000 cash on hand for my arrival in Dublin. I now had less than
$550 cash in my pocket to make it from the Netherlands to Ireland. I
knew it was going to be tight. I knew I couldn't encounter any more
such problems. I also knew I likely would encounter more problems.
What I didn't know was that I was about to forget to transfer what
little else I had in my savings to my checking account so I could
transfer those to my debit card whilst in Amsterdam for a safety net.
This meant the call I eventually made on Friday would delay any funds
being transferred and usable until Tuesday the next week. I had to
stay that night in the airport. I simply could not afford the $130
quotes for a hotel room nearby for me and Carlow.
I was unable to get more than a few
moments rest here and there in the Airport. The seats in the terminal
seemingly are not meant to be comfortable, and there was too much
foot traffic to sleep on the floor. I was too concerned Carlow may
become loose to truly relax any. Check in was at 11AM. I had
retrieved the cargo crate from Delta Cargo by 9AM. So another 2 miles
of walking with the crate, Carlow, and the luggage in tow.
During the night, something amazing was
happening that I was almost unaware of through the fog of my sleep
deprivation. Friends of mine that had heard of my ordeal, especially
those in Europe and Ireland, became intensely interested in my
plight.
It is now 11AM on Thursday morning,
November the 15th. I am now basically awake for close to
36 hours. I could not concentrate enough during the night to really
fixate on any travel plans out of Amsterdam. I only knew I must take
a train to the Ferry terminal as a flight was unlikely.
I boarded the plane to find that my
ticket was 'affordable' for a reason. It was a small middle seat that
could not recline, and also had an equipment box under the footwell
before me. I am 6 feet tall, and the space I was meant to be in for
the next 11 hours of my life would not be comfortable for someone
half my size. There was an elderly woman next to me that was very
talkative and inquisitive. I would not find much sleep on the flight.
Fortunately, I am offered ample food and drinks during the journey.
Amsterdam:
It is Friday, November 16th.
48 hours into my journey and I might have had 3-4 hours of any
quality rest. I am starting to feel my mind go. I am in the baggage
terminal awaiting the delivery of Carlow and her crate. I lean
against the wall and fall asleep for a few moments. It would be
nearly an hour before I see Carlow and enter customs. I dig out the
pile of paperwork I have for both me and Carlow, and present them to
a very friendly customs officer. She seems more interested
asking questions about Greyhounds and of myself than inspecting the
documents. She welcomes me to Amsterdam with hardly a cursory review
of my paperwork, and shows me to the passport control desk. At the
passport checkpoint the man finds I am keen on reaching Ireland as
soon as humanly possible. He smiles and says I should spend more time
in Amsterdam. “It's really very nice here. Enjoy it!” he says with a thick
Dutch accent and a smile. I nod and smile almost painfully. I have
always wanted to visit Amsterdam since I was young. Now having
landed, I must leave with as much haste as possible. Now is not the time. This doesn't
lift my spirits much.
In the terminal I find a charger for my
Irish phone - I had lost mine the year or so I had it back in the
states. It cost me $35 USD. I have no choice but to purchase it as a
new phone is twice that. My US phone does not work in Europe.
Fortunately, the Irish phone comes alive after a charge and I have
all my previous European contacts easily accessible to me now. I buy
a SIM card and 10 Euro credit. It makes my phone behave as though it
were Dutch. I have nothing against the Dutch. I just can not
understand their language. I visit a shop where the clerk obviously
speaks Dutch and ask her kindly if she would decipher the Dutch
instructions that are now on my phone and see if she can switch it
over to English. She fiddles with my phone in earnest and is
successful after a fashion. She hands the phone back to me with a
proud smile of success on her face. I thanked her profusely. The
voice top up instructions are still in Dutch. The 10 Euro will have
to last me until I can figure it out. I resign to only using SMS
messages.
In the terminal there is very
unreliable internet access for my laptop. I use a combination of
laptop and SMS communications to contact my acquaintances in Europe
for assistance in an arrival to Ireland. It is today that I find I
have garnered a huge facebook following of people from both Europe
and America whom have taken interest in my current plight. Folks from
Sweden and Holland to the UK to Germany to Ireland to the USA have
all commented on threads on the Facebook pages of my friends. Even a
friend of mine from Belgium contacts me to lend some verbal support.
I suddenly needed fresh air, and so headed towards the front exit of
Schiphol. I also wanted to find a green area where I could let
Carlow out. A young Polish woman lights up a
cigarette next to me where we stood near one of the revolving air
terminal doors.
“I'd kill for a cigarette right
now.”, I said before I even realized I was speaking aloud.
“OH, here. I have some.”, She
motioned to her purse and pulled out a complete pack of smokes and
motioned them towards me. I shook my head. I couldn't take an entire
pack of smokes off of a stranger, not at the prices they go for in
Europe. “No worry! These are Polish! One Euro for pack! Is good!”
Previous to this journey I had quit
smoking. This one today was the best cigarette I had smoked in a very
long time. I thanked the kind woman profusely, forced a two Euro coin
into her hand, and went again on my journey. I wheel my luggage and
Carlow with her crate towards the air terminal once more. The Bus
terminal would be below it. I need find my way from Amsterdam via
train to the Hoek Van Holland Haven port. This will incur a cost of
$40 USD. I have much less than five hundred American dollars to get
me from Holland to Ireland. It is now that I realize I forgot to
contact my bank and transfer funds to my checking account. Though I
do so, I know what little cash I have on me is all I would have to
make it for this trip until Tuesday.
After purchasing my ticket, I head
towards the people-mover that plunges into the bowels of Schiphol.
There was just one problem – there were bollards placed before it;
presumably so one could not exit the terminal with one of the free
hand carts they supply for luggage at the airport. This also meant
there was really no way to get Carlow's crate out of the airport. She
will have to go on foot. I was just praying she would not vacate her
bowels right there in the terminal as I hadn't yet found a green area
for her. This is also when I find that the airline had placed
industrial grade zip ties on the crate to keep the door closed. There
was simply no way anything short of a cutting implement would remove
these things. Fortunately I had packed a large folding knife in my
luggage. My train was in 8 minutes. I desperately rummaged through my
luggage for the better part of a minute until my hand fell upon the
knife. I whipped it out and released the blade with one fluid motion,
“*SNICK*”. I was now in Amsterdam International Airport with a
weapon. Even in the USA I would have quickly attracted attention. So,
I fastidiously went about cutting the zip ties free from the crate,
completely surrounded by air travelers on their merry way. Perhaps
they would afford me some concealment...or perhaps they would notify
the police...
I was nearly finished when the state
police decide to visit with me.
“So, you know knives are not allowed
in the airports terminals, right?”, someone said to me with a thick accent. I turned to find three very tall, very blond, very
viking-like Dutch police officers standing before me. At least their
Glock handguns were still in the holsters, which were at eye-level as
I crouched before Carlow's crate. I had just cut the last tie. I
folded the knife back up and placed it upon the top of the crate as I
stood.
“So, yeah. Uh, sorry about the knife thing.” I started. They then had a lot of questions for me. I would
be missing that train, of course.
After showing them my passport, they
almost seemed to relax a bit.
“You know, dis is not America. I am
sure everyone in de world got a knife in America, but here you should
not use it in airport. It attracts de attention of de police.” No
shit?
The Dutch began to explain the MANY differences between our two countries in detail then. Somehow we also ended up speaking extensively how much they preferred the Glock 9mm pistols to the Smith and Wessons, Greyhounds, and how easy it was to get firearms in the US, and how they liked American pizza and TV when I realized I needed to get another train ASAP. I found a good moment to break off the conversation without being rude to the police. One of them says to me, “Sorry about the knife. So go on quick! Have a safe journeys!”
The Dutch began to explain the MANY differences between our two countries in detail then. Somehow we also ended up speaking extensively how much they preferred the Glock 9mm pistols to the Smith and Wessons, Greyhounds, and how easy it was to get firearms in the US, and how they liked American pizza and TV when I realized I needed to get another train ASAP. I found a good moment to break off the conversation without being rude to the police. One of them says to me, “Sorry about the knife. So go on quick! Have a safe journeys!”
Did the state police just
apologize to me for having a knife in their airport? No matter. They
let me keep it, and I had a train to catch. I remove Carlow along
with one of her stuffed toys from the crate and make for the train
platforms.
All the train information is in Dutch.
There is a young man on a bench before me, looking at Carlow. She
crouches and releases the largest single piece of dog biscuit I have
ever seen come out of the back of her. She smiled at me and the
bench-sitting stranger, apparently proud of her most recent work. I
had nothing with me to clean it up. I considered sacrificing one of
my socks when I notice what lay before me was a fairly solid-looking
piece of hound dropping. I look at the stranger. He looks at me with
genuine interest to see what I was about to do. I smiled at him
meekly and nudged the big nugget onto the train tracks down below the
plat with the heel of my shoe. Bench guy chuckled. I took the
opportunity to ask him for assistance deciphering the train schedule.
Two hours later, I am at the Hoek Van Holland Haven.
I book a ferry for Harwich England.
There is really no other path I can take from here to Dublin. It
sails in six hours and costs me $180. My ass is already stinging like
a trucker with hemorrhoids after having sat in a plane seat for 11
hours, an airport torture seat for a night, and a train for two more
hours. I stand...for six hours. At least there is some green area
outside of the ferry terminal for Carlow to enjoy.
“You know, dis is not America where
we can simply leave our bags laying about at the ferry terminals!”
A police officer shouts down to me. I had left my luggage on
top of the disused train plat that lead up to an older part of the
ferry terminal by some green area where I was letting Carlow out on
lead. He must have read my tags on the baggage and seen I had
departed the US. He then proceeded to give me a long diatribe about
safety and ferries and some other stuff I didn't understand both for
his accent and the fact I was deeply sleep-deprived. Eventually he
relented and literally bid me “Good day!”. I went inside the
terminal and decided to lay down on the bench seats and maybe get a
bit of rest.
“You know, in dis country we do not
put our feet on the benches!” It was the Dutch officer again, and
not a moment after I had become comfortable on the bench. “Pleez
remove de foot and sit on the bench normals.” I wouldn't be getting
any sleep before the ferry. When the time came, I approached the
immigration officer and show her my paperwork. She glared at them
for a while, especially Carlows European pet passport. She then holds
up a finger and quickly turns and disappears into the offices
beyond. I wait.
She returns just as the last call to
board the ferry I am scheduled for comes over the loud speakers. I am
relieved as I am assuming I am about to board that ferry. I was
wrong.
It turns out in all the confusion
during the journey so far that I had lapsed nearly 18 hours beyond
the UK limit for worm treatment. Well, I mean, Carlow had lapsed. The
UK didn't give a damn if I arrived full of worms. I was informed you
must land in the UK within five days after treating your pet for
worms. Apparently Europe has some sort of super worm problem? Seriously, they need to be treated five days at a time?
I am denied passage on the ferry. Then I am informed that Carlow can not travel less than 24 hours after having had her worm treatment. In order for me to make the evening ferry the next day, I would have to get Carlow treated for worms at a state-qualified veterinary clinic in Holland within the hour. I had a feeling it was not going to be cheap.
I am denied passage on the ferry. Then I am informed that Carlow can not travel less than 24 hours after having had her worm treatment. In order for me to make the evening ferry the next day, I would have to get Carlow treated for worms at a state-qualified veterinary clinic in Holland within the hour. I had a feeling it was not going to be cheap.
“It's not going to be cheap.” The
immigration officer says. “The clinic is 45 minutes away, and they
say the costs are 150 Euro for the treatment and 125 for the taxi.”
That wasn't cheap.
I send a text message to my contact in
Ireland. She sends an update to her Facebook page. I tell her I may
be stranded in Holland.
I was almost surprised the taxi driver
spoke very little English, but English would have just made this part
of the trip that much easier, and I was beginning to understand by
now that this journey was never meant to be easy. However, he finds the vet
easily. The vets treat Carlow easily while the taxi waits with the meter running. Paying wasn't so easy. Paying that
taxi would be even more difficult. He didn't take credit cards. My
bank wouldn't have any cash in it until Tuesday morning. The only
option I had was to go to the ferry terminal and ask them for a
refund so that I could take the cash and pay the taximan.
So now it's dark. I have carlow and all
my luggage in tow. The ferry terminal is closed until morning.
The crisp misted air carried the cold down to my bones. The urgency gave way to more of a melancholy. I was aching and exhausted. I poke at my smart phone and give my facebook following an update before I head into the shelter of town and plan to meander about until morning. Perhaps walking will keep me warm. I had enough on a credit card for the ferry, but not both a ferry and a hotel room. At this point I am hoping to stretch out the cash I have for another two days until what little I have transferring to my checking account can get me to Ireland early next week. Still, I wasn't sure Carlow and I could stand the night out in the elements.
The crisp misted air carried the cold down to my bones. The urgency gave way to more of a melancholy. I was aching and exhausted. I poke at my smart phone and give my facebook following an update before I head into the shelter of town and plan to meander about until morning. Perhaps walking will keep me warm. I had enough on a credit card for the ferry, but not both a ferry and a hotel room. At this point I am hoping to stretch out the cash I have for another two days until what little I have transferring to my checking account can get me to Ireland early next week. Still, I wasn't sure Carlow and I could stand the night out in the elements.
“You again?” The officer I met at
the Ferry terminal was before me. He was taking the measure of both
me and Carlow. I was about to speak when he cut me off.
“The hotels is the opposite way you
are going. You have a hotel, yes?” No. I simply stared at my feet. “You can't just wander the
street at night.”. I asked him if he could just arrest us and give
us a warm jail cell for the night, but oddly it turns out they have
no jail in that part of Holland. He walked me over to the Kuiper Duin
Inn and basically forces me to get
a room. It is a very nice hotel, and I had a very welcome night of
sleep in a very warm bed followed by a very nice breakfast. Carlow
and I had ran out of food the night before, so I took it upon myself
to sneak some breakfast out to her as well. The only thing I had to
feed her from here on out would be biscuits and jerky. The jerky was
meant as a gift for a friend in Ireland. I had no problem feeding it
to Carlow as it is very healthy. The only issue really was that it
cost me nearly $20 per pound. I had nothing for myself once breakfast
was gone. I talked the Hotelier's price down to whatever change I had
in my pocket. I would end up at the ferry on Saturday, four days
after the start of this journey, destitute. Any help monetarily
during the rest of this trip would be courtesy of all my Facebook
friends. I had two more days to go before landing in Ireland.
Four days and twelve hours after I arrived at the ticket desk at Delta in the USA, I was in the Hoek Van Holland Haven ferry terminal. I am told
that friends are feverishly working on hoeking me up with a ferry
ticket. I go ahead and hand over my newly vetted european pet
passport complete with new worming info on it to the immigration
control at the ferry terminal. They seem much more pleased. Before
long, I am made aware I have a ticket for Harwich England awaiting
me. The ferry and I leave Holland nearly 8 hours later on an
overnight cruise to England land. On the cruise I have access to the
internetz where I am told there would be a Western Union moneygram
awaiting me in the morning which should cover train costs to the
other side of Wales. It is also suggested I speak to someone in the
trucker's lounge to see about a lift across England.
In the truckers lounge of the good ship
Britannica are only 6 Brits. Apparently the weekend is not the time
to catch a lift off the truckers. They are friendly enough, aside
from one stunningly racist driver with an apparently endless catalog
of racist jokes at his disposal. A kind husband and wife team offer
me passage up to Crewe, at which point I could hop the train to
Holyhead. I return to my cabin pleased with my accomplishment.
“Do NOT go with those truckers! They
will murder you!” is the consensus on the Facebooks. In all
fairness, I could do with a bit of murdering after what I have gone
through so far on this journey. And little did I know that 18 hours
later I would be praying for death yet again.
I only get 3 hours of sleep on the
ferry before I have to disembark. Carlow is looking worse and worse for
wear, but there is no stopping this hell ride now. Unless customs
have anything to do with it...
UK customs pull me aside and want to give me the third degree and look through my luggage. They ask me who I am, where I am from, where I am going, why I have a dog, if she has a passport and papers, etc etc. One immigration officer asks where I am staying. I tell him that, though I have nothing against England, it is only a means to an end. I planned to be out of England by night fall. He found it an odd response. He looked at me and then the dog. Carlow promptly responded to all the attention by dropping a series of biscuits at their feet. They were not impressed. I apologize profusely and am made to clean the mess up. They find my folding knife and remind me that it is a weapon in England and is to be kept inside my luggage at all times. They further scrutinized my passports while I sort my luggage enough to force the zippers closed. Another immigration officer approaches us during this and whispers to another that they were meant to pull a different person aside. I am handed back my papers and told to enjoy my day in England.
UK customs pull me aside and want to give me the third degree and look through my luggage. They ask me who I am, where I am from, where I am going, why I have a dog, if she has a passport and papers, etc etc. One immigration officer asks where I am staying. I tell him that, though I have nothing against England, it is only a means to an end. I planned to be out of England by night fall. He found it an odd response. He looked at me and then the dog. Carlow promptly responded to all the attention by dropping a series of biscuits at their feet. They were not impressed. I apologize profusely and am made to clean the mess up. They find my folding knife and remind me that it is a weapon in England and is to be kept inside my luggage at all times. They further scrutinized my passports while I sort my luggage enough to force the zippers closed. Another immigration officer approaches us during this and whispers to another that they were meant to pull a different person aside. I am handed back my papers and told to enjoy my day in England.
I am outside the terminal awaiting the
taxi that was sorted for me the night before by my Facebuds. He is
spot on time and my English journey commences.
We drive around for the better part of
an hour – there is no Western Union office in this part of England,
nor would there be on the other side. I am again stranded without any
money. The taxi drivers take pity on me and offer me a place to stay
for the day and all the tea I can handle. They are fond of
Greyhounds. I am there for about four hours when a kind English lady
from Sheffield manages to find me passage on the trains to Holyhead.
I said 'trains'. The clerk at Harwich
International Train station hands me an itinerary that is a bit
startling. Over the course of the next nine hours I am to transfer to
six trains before I arrive at Holyhead. I am informed that missing a
single train means I risk staying the night at the station. I would
not see a station that is indoor heated and open overnight until
Crewe. I would have to remain awake and focused until my final
transfer at Crewe for the Holyhead train. That train was a three hour
ride, terminating in Wales. I would be able to catch up on a bit of
rest then. It was nearly three in the evening. I fed Carlow the last
of the jerky. The tea I had that morning would have to see me through
to Wales. I am told I have a hotel awaiting me at the end of the
line. Now, all I had to do was make it completely across England and
Wales by days end.
It is a complete and utter miracle that
I find my way to Crewe without incident five trains later. It is
Sunday night and the trains are packed with students and travelers
returning home from the weekend. There is hardly room for me and
Carlow. Most of the passengers near Carlow fawn over her and comment
on how beautiful she is. No one mentions how handsome I am. I must
look like hell. All I want is sleep. By the time I board the train to
Holyhead the hunger pangs start.
Aboard the Virgin fast train to Wales I
settle in with Carlow at my feet and begin to try for some sleep. I
am nearly unconscious when the conductor awakens me.
“You can't have your hound in the aisle! She is a trip hazard!”, she nearly barks to me. “You either
clear this isle or the dog will have to remain at the end of the car.
You can not leave her unattended!”. Carlow can not clear the isle
even if she were up against the side of the car between the seats.
I am at the end of the box car. The
doors are here, and Carlow is anxious the entire time as she thinks
we are about to leave the train. We have four more stops. Every time
the doors open, I have to hold Carlow back. There would be no rest
for me or Carlow on this leg. I receive a text on my Dutch phone. It
tells me my hotel information on the Wales side for the night. We're
getting there.
It's nearly midnight, November 18th.
I leave the terminal. It's windy with rain. I am told a storm is on
it's way. I just want to make it to the hotel before I pass out. A
warm, dry bed and the knowledge that there will be biscuits and tea
waiting for me there drive me forward in earnest. Welsh publicans
help me with directions along the way. In short order I arrive at the
WaveCrest Bed and Breakfast in Holyhead, Wales. It is now very early
Sunday morning and I am stuffing myself silly with biscuits and
emptying all of the tiny milk containers meant for the tea and coffee
into my stomach; over a dozen in all. I am drenched in cold rain, but
do not care. I text message Ireland that I have arrived at the B&B
and immediately pass out.
It is Monday, November the 19th.
Sleep was difficult come morning. The storm had arrived. Next door
there was scaffolding against the house. The wind was playing with it
like a giant wind chime. If I couldn't sleep in, I was at least going
to have some decent food. I head downstairs, take Carlow out to do
her business in a near by alley, and then visit the kitchen. The
proprietor is a kind man that asks me what would I like for my
breakfast. I tell him 'everything'. I get everything. There is enough
left over to feed Carlow well. My ferry at 11:50 is canceled for the
rough seas. I would have to wait until the late afternoon ferry. This
will put me in Dublin by 6pm. I can sense the end is near, and this
helps me move onwards. I thank the proprietor, hand him the room
keys, and drag Carlow and the luggage back out in to the rain and the
wind. Carlow isn't happy. She doesn't believe me when I tell her we
are nearly there. No matter – we are nearly there.
A kindly old Welsh man sits next to me
in the terminal as I await my ferry. He tells me about World War Two.
He tells me about the Falklands. He tells me about the Triumph two
thousand he owned. He tells me a very sad story about his wife. He
tells me nice stories about his kids. He tells me he is getting old
and tired. I smile at him and listen. After a fashion, I tell him I
had a ferry to catch. We shake hands and part our separate ways.
When I arrive at the front of the queue
I am told I can not bring Carlow aboard an Irish Ferry without her
already being in a crate. I'm afraid I left that crate in Amsterdam.
The clerk immediately motions to the Stena line queue, which is
nearly empty. Stena take me and Carlow on board and welcome us
kindly. Three hours to go. Carlow is not happy when I have to crate
her one last time. She hates crates – absolutely is terrified of
them. I calm her as best as I can. This will be the last time in a
long time, I assure her. The lackey, an Irish man with a smile,
arrives and makes sure the animals are all secure. I have to smoke.
He tells me it is a no smoking cargo hold, but that so long as I
avoid the CCTV, I'll be OK. We both have a smoke before I head
upstairs to the passenger lounges.
The seas are very rough. I nearly
vomit. I pray that Carlow isn't filling her crate up with all that
breakfast I got her. An Irish child approaches me and informs me that
I look like 'shite'. I agree. He laughs and runs off to somewhere
else in the ship. I try to watch the television sets to take my mind
off of the ocean. It works, for the most part. I receive a text
before land is out of sight. I am to meet with a man at the Dublin
port that will drive me and Carlow to our final destination in
Ireland. I spend the next couple of hours trying to hold in my
breakfast. I look out the window on occasion at the Irish Ferries
Ferry which is paralleling our course. It better not collide with us,
I tell it. I've come a long way to get here in the oceans.
I start to drift off to sleep just as
the ferry starts to shudder. I know what that shudder means – we're
nearly docked. I grab my bags and rush down to cargo deck five and
wait eagerly for the bulk head doors to unlock and allow me access to
my hound. I am excited and exhausted. In 30 minutes time Carlow and I
would be on Irish soil, on our way to Tipperary, our journey finally
over - nearly six days later